- #AWE TUNING BOOST GAUGE KIT INSTALL#
- #AWE TUNING BOOST GAUGE KIT UPGRADE#
- #AWE TUNING BOOST GAUGE KIT SERIES#
Due to the modular construction, the new range is also upgradeable and completely serviceable, as all components can be removed or upgraded. This allows the wastegate to be fitted in confined positions without compromising packaging for fittings or aligning the cap. The cap is also completely independent and indexable in 12 different positions compared to the actuator base and body. The unique variable adjustment design allows the wastegate actuator base to be oriented independently from the weld flanges.
#AWE TUNING BOOST GAUGE KIT UPGRADE#
Additionally, if you decide to upgrade your new wastegate to a Motorsport or compressed gas-only actuator you can with an upgrade kit. So, if you need a large wastegate in a tight space you can run a smaller actuator on the larger body. We designed our new unit to allow actuators to be interchangeable across the range.
#AWE TUNING BOOST GAUGE KIT SERIES#
The 5th series wastegate range has been designed for maximum user-adjustability, without compromising performance. I'm going to copy that setup for sure when I get my Podi setup this summer.Turbosmart Gen V Hyper-Gate 45 7psi External Wastegate
#AWE TUNING BOOST GAUGE KIT INSTALL#
could be good could be badNice ddun! I like the extremely clean install and how you ran through the firewall. could be good could be badĪlso the gauge reflects off of my window tint, so the boost gauge appears like a HUD looking at my side mirror. it dims with the dimmer but the output of the gauge is still brighter in any setting.Īlso the gauge reflects off of my window tint, so the boost gauge appears like a HUD looking at my side mirror. Ill try to get some better night shots but as you can see, the gauge is clearly lighter than the rest of the vehicle. This is just a close up of said hole and can see the boost hose coming out of it There is a drain at the bottom and if you follow the wall down where the red arrow is in the first picture you'll feel the hole, thats how i entered the engine bay instead of cutting up the boot of the wiring harness. It's where the ECU and windhsield reservoir is. theres actually another compartment between the engine bay/firewall.
Since I'm a pussy and got a tiptronicĪnd heres the other side of the firewall. Heres how i route it through the firewall, where the clutch would go.
Not really a good collection of night shots, ill try to get better shots. I am peaking at 21-22, and holding around 17-19Īlso, i lost the cap that you screw off to gain access to the ecu/washer fluid reservoir, anyone know a part number so i can order another one? This thread is useless without pictures I know, but my someone stole my camera battery. Finally noticed i zip tied the hose flat, it was such a hassle! I was like wtf, took everything apart and reinstalled again, still didn't work. It collapsed on me and was reading nothing. Also when you're securing the boost hose in the engine bay, don't zip tie it so tight. Before I even touched the car, I had the vent ready and drilled, and all wiring done. Tip: do all your wiring/extending/crimping beforehand. Connect it to the boost tap and you're done! Once it gets to the other side, there's a drain hole at the bottom, fish it through that. Since I have the triptronic I routed the boost hose through the rubber where the clutch would be.
I didn't even touch the ECU/boot or the windshield washer reservoir. Just a few differences credited to B8aruba over at AW
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